Istanbul
Istanbul as seen from Kadikoy (Marco Ng)
The Itinerary
Trip Dates: 13 March 2022 - 17 March 2022 (4 nights)
Flight to Istanbul: Club Europe, British Airways - £285
Hotel: Deluxe King Room, Wyndham Grand Istanbul Kalamis Marina Hotel - £330 (£82.50/night)
How to get there (and back)
My trip to Istanbul in March 2022 formed the final part of a bigger trip to rack up some tier points on my quest for Gold status in British Airways’ (www.ba.com) Executive Club. By ending my bigger trip in Istanbul, I significantly reduced the costs associated with long-haul flying with British Airways from London. Although my outbound and return flights were booked separately, the total came to around £285 return - a pretty decent price for return flights in Club Europe, British Airways’ business class product.
Entry requirements at the time of travel were pretty much back to normal and I only needed to complete a health declaration prior to departure. That said, at the time of writing, coronavirus related travel restrictions are now far and few between. The Foreign, Commonwealth and Development Office’s (www.gov.uk) travel advice page continues to be the first point of call for official information on entry requirements but be sure to check the consular or embassy website of the country you’re visiting too.
My flight to Istanbul was scheduled to depart Heathrow at 16:15, getting me into Istanbul at 23:15. There were no issues with my airport experience and I had opted to avoid checking in a bag given recent challenges with British Airways’ baggage handling at Heathrow. Breezing through Security, I headed to the T5B Galleries Lounge as my flight was leaving from the B Gates.
We departed around 40-minutes late whilst we waited for some late arriving connecting passengers that were due to join our flight. Onboard, as per recent Club Europe trips, covid-restricted service continued with the same, limited choice of menu items.
Arriving into Istanbul about 30-minutes late, I walked into a busier than expected arrivals hall before clearing Immigration after a modest 20-minute queue. Once through, my driver was waiting for me as I’d pre-booked an airport transfer with booking.com (www.booking.com). The journey to the hotel took just under an hour with the roads empty in the early hours of the morning.
On the return journey, my driver picked me up from the hotel as part of my pre-booked airport transfers. Traffic was busier during the day and the journey took closer to 1 hour and 15 minutes. My return flight was scheduled to leave Istanbul at 17:25, getting me back into London at 18:50. With online check-in completed, I headed straight for Airport Security after passing a quick bag check to get into the terminal. Airport Security was after Departures Immigration and there was, thankfully, a queue for neither.
I continued to be amazed by the size of the terminal as I walked from Security to the lounge used by British Airways at Istanbul. Called the IGA Lounge (www.igapass.com), the lounge is located towards the west end of the main terminal near concourse A and B, after security. The lounge is set on a number of levels featuring a full range of seating from work areas to lie-flat loungers on the lowest level furthest from the entrance to the lounge. I was fortunate to bag one of these seats and managed to get an hour or so’s shut-eye whilst waiting for my flight. There is also a bar that serves the usual range of wines and spirits, including sparkling wine. Soft drinks and water were available from fridges located throughout the lounge. The food options were pretty strong with a mix of sandwiches and mezze from the cold buffet and a small selection of hot food from a rotating menu. The one stand-out option in the lounge was the pide station that continuously churned out meat and vegetarian portions of pide! This lounge was by far the best third-party run lounge I’ve visited and it was a real pleasure to spend a couple of hours here.
British Airways’ flights tend to leave from Gate D7 and is a short 5 minutes walk from the lounge. Secondary security screen takes place for these flights so leave a little extra time in case you’re selected. Boarding takes place in groups and couple with a small gate area and secondary screening, the gate can get very crowded.
I was in Row 1 on my return flight, just as I was on the outbound. I had ordered a special meal in anticipation of a repeat of the covid-menu I had become so familiar with but little did I know that it would be the first day that normal Club Europe service would resume. I spoke with the crew who were very accommodating, allowing me to select something from their refreshed menu once the rest of the cabin had selected theirs. I opted for the King Prawn Curry, which was delightful, and this came with a tomato and mozzarella salad, cheese and crackers and a signature Do&Co chocolate mousse.
Having departed 13 minutes late, the crew were able to make up time en-route to land 13 minutes early.
How to get around
Istanbul is a busy city with an extensive but often crowded network of trams and metros run by Metro Istanbul (www.metro.istanbul). Fares are extremely cheap with each journey costing 7.67₺ (£0.35) for each journey. Getting around by taxi and Uber (www.uber.co.uk) is relatively inexpensive but can mean sitting in traffic, especially at the busiest times of the day. I used a mixture of the two, depending on where I was going and how accessible it was by public transport.
Where to stay
Located on the asian side of Istanbul, the Wyndham Grand Istanbul Kalamis Marina Hotel (www.wyndhamhotels.com) is a luxurious hotel, offering 210 rooms and suites with views of the city, sea or marina. Travel time from the airport is around 50 minutes by taxi, but this is to be expected for a hotel located some 35 miles away, on the other side of a populus city. The hotel is located a ten-minute walk to the nearest metro station, which provides regular links in to the rest of the city.
The 5* hotel feels luxurious throughout and each room or suite is extremely well appointed, featuring a very comfortable king bed, bathroom with separate shower, plenty of storage and seating. Some rooms come with a balcony that overlooks the courtyard. There are 7 restaurants and bars on site, of which I sampled a couple, and a very well equipped gym and spa, which I got to use almost exclusively at one point as no-one else was there.
A deluxe room will set you back around £82.50 per night but is well worth the premium given the hotel’s amenities.
Places to eat and drink
Ciya Kebap
Turkish, Middle Eastern | Address: Caferaga Mahallesi, Gunesli Bahçe Sk. 44, Kadikoy, Istanbul | Pricing: ££
Ciya Kebap (www.ciya.com.tr) is part of a chain of three restaurants in close proximity to each other in the district of Kadikoy. Ciya was quite possibly one of the best meals I had in Istanbul, mainly because of its authenticity and diverse taste. Eating in Istanbul requires a stomach as items such as lamb brain soup are on the menu at eateries such as Ciya Kebap.
Ouzo Roof Restaurant
Turkish, Mediterranean | Address: Fener Kalamis Caddesi 38, Kalamis, Istanbul | Pricing: ££££
One of the seven restaurants and bars at the Wyndham Grand Istanbul Kalamis Marina Hotel is Ouzo Roof Restaurant (www.ouzorestaurant.com), offering top-notch fine dining, wines and cocktails to the many residents of the hotel and non-residents. Located on the top floor of the hotel, it has floor to ceiling windows offering panoramic views of the marina and beyond. Cocktails here are great value and food portions are perfectly sized.
Jigger Kitchen and Bar
Bar, Turkish | Address: Fener Kalamis Caddesi 38, Kalamis, Istanbul | Pricing: £££
Another of the seven restaurants and bars at the Wyndham Grand Istanbul Kalamis Marina Hotel is Jigger Kitchen and Bar (www.wyndhamgrandkalamis.com), offering a wider range of cocktails and drinks. Designed as more of a bar, it also serves up a range of quick dishes for those opting for a more informal dining scene at the hotel.
Maromi
Japanese, Sushi | Address: Amiral Fahri Koruturk Yat Limani Kalamis, Kadikoy, Istanbul | Pricing: ££££
Whilst it’s unusual to want sushi in Istanbul, I fancied a change from the kebabs and grills so went to Maromi (www.divan.com.tr) located across the road from the Wyndham Grand Istanbul Kalamis Marina Hotel. Whilst pricing is slightly higher, this is probably the best sushi I’ve had this side of Asia and well worth a try if you’re looking for something different.
Develi 1912
Turkish, Barbecue | Address: Munir Nurettin Selcuk Caddesi Kalamis Yat Limani Kadikoy, Istanbul | Pricing: ££
Located in Kalamis Marina, Develi 1912 (www.develi1912.com) serves fancy kebabs with a host of house special dishes to accompany them. Portions are huge and the specials are well worth trying as an appetiser - order more to share!
Places to go and things to do
Istanbul is renowned for its stunning architecture, which is inspired by three significant regions of the world of which are united here, only separated by the waters of the Bosphorus river - Asia, Europe and the Middle East. It’s significant role in the history of the world is evident everywhere you look.
On the European side of Istanbul, take an Uber from your hotel and start at the Obelisk of Theodosius, an Egyptian monument transported from the River Nile to its current location by a number of emperors in various stages during their rule. Damaged during transportation, the obelisk is shorter than it would’ve been in its original location and features Egyptian hieroglyphics.
Then, walk south-east to the Blue Mosque (or Sultan Ahmet Camii), a functional Ottoman-era historical, imperial mosque famous for the hand painted blue tiles that cover the internal walls of the mosque. Located north-east from the Blue Mosque is the Hagia Sophia (or Ayasofya), the principal mosque in Istanbul before the Blue Mosque was built. Originally a Greek-Orthodox cathedral, the building was converted to a mosque in 1453. The grand scale of these buildings is stunning and both form part of the UNESCO protected location known as the Historical Area of Istanbul.
North of the two mosques is a park called Gulhane Park, one of the oldest public places in Istanbul with trees dating back to the 1800s. From there, you can access the Istanbul Archaeological Museums (www.muze.gen.tr) and is made up of The Archaeology Museum, The Museum of the Ancient Orient, The Tiled Kiosk Museum. The three buildings surround the same courtyard and provide a interesting insight into the variety of cultures that have shaped Istanbul into its current form. Entry to all three museums costs 100₺ (around £4.65), and a detailed visit will take around half a day.
In the heart of the European side of Istanbul and inside the walled city is the Grand Bazaar, a labyrinth of 61 covered streets featuring over 4,000 shops. A hive of activity and journey for the senses, the alleys of shops sell anything from perfectly crafted rugs and antiques to souvenirs and cups of tea. Be prepared to get lost and embrace it - you could just stumble across a gem.
Head north from the Grand Bazaar and you’ll come across the Spice Bazaar, a smaller market specialising in the sale of spices, teas and other culinary ingredients from across the region. Allow your senses to be stimulated by the colours and smells and perhaps purchase a few items for your own kitchen from here.
On the western shore of the Bosphorus is the Dolmabahçe Palace (www.dolmabahcepalace.com), a building of significance to the Ottoman Empire. Here, many of the 285 rooms, 46 halls and numerous toilets and baths have been restored, showing off their Baroque, Rococo and Neoclassical styles and Ottoman architecture. There are also some beautiful grounds that surround the palace. Entry to the palace costs 300₺ (around £13.95) for foreign visitors. Shoes must be covered during the visit with free disposable covers and no photos are allowed.
A cruise of the Bosphorus is essential and provides an easy way to see the sights on both the European and Asian sides of Istanbul from the river. Tours can be booked online from all good tour operators including Tripadvisor, where I booked mine for £8.50. Be prepared to wrap up warm in colder weather as the winds can be strong out on the river.
Head down Istiklal Street to experience every day life in modern Istanbul. Comparable to London’s Oxford Street or New York’s Fifth Avenue, this street is lined with shops, restaurants and bars and is an excellent place to pick up treats to take home - especially the baklava!
Bottom Line
Sense-tingling and easy on the eyes, Istanbul is a vibrant city showing the beauty that can be created when the world comes together. Rich in history and culture, I feel I barely scraped the surface on my visit and a little reading beforehand can really help bring everything together. Getting around is relatively easy and very cheap compared to cities of similar sizes. Going off-season definitely has its benefits with fewer crowds adding to the neutral chaos but be prepared for colder months to be deceptively cold, even with snow as I’d learned during my visit in March. I’d definitely recommend a visit in the shoulder season for those who want to get in some sun too.
