Austria
The Hofburg Imperial Palace in Vienna (Marco Ng)
The Itinerary
Trip Dates: 14-19 April 2022 (5 nights)
Flights: Club Europe, British Airways - £238
Train to/from Hallstatt: First Class, OBB InterCity - £60
Hotel (in Vienna): Standard Room, Novotel Wien Hauptbahnhof - £380 (£76/night)
How to get there (and back)
For Club Europe, these flights were considerably more expensive than what I’d usually pay for within Europe. However, considering that this was over the Easter weekend, the mark up is in line with what you would expect. These flights were booked directly with British Airways (www.ba.com) and cost £238 return in Club Europe and earned me 80 Tier Points towards my ongoing quest for Gold status with British Airways’ Executive Club.
Kieran would be flying out a couple of days later in Euro Traveller and then returning on the same flight as me in Club Europe. His return leg was booked using Avios, the currency of British Airways’ Executive Club, and was a Reward Flight Saver redemption costing 17,250 avios plus £17.50 in fees.
Entry requirements at the time of travel were back to normal and I only needed to wear a face covering, with no documentation required. The Foreign, Commonwealth and Development Office’s (www.gov.uk) travel advice page continues to be the first point of call for official information on entry requirements but be sure to check the consular or embassy website of the country you’re visiting too.
My outbound flight was scheduled to depart Heathrow at 15:15 and would get me into Vienna at 18:45. My return flight was scheduled to depart Vienna at 21:15 and would get me back to London for 22:45.
As my flight to Vienna would be departing from Terminal 3, I arrived early to try out the various lounges that I had access to through either my credit card or my British Airways’ Silver status. Fast Track Security in Terminal 3 was a breeze and I managed to get through to the lounges after being dropped off on the forecourt in a little under 5 minutes.
The first lounge I visited was the American Express Centurion Lounge (www.thecenturionlounge.com), which opened in October 2021, is an airline-independent lounge for eligible American Express card members. I hold an American Express Platinum Charge Card (www.americanexpress.com) which gives me access to 40+ of their premium lounges worldwide. The lounge is located deep within the departure lounge in Terminal 3 and can be found behind Spuntino restaurant.
I then popped in to the Qantas International Lounge (www.qantas.com), which is accessible to passengers flying business or first class with Qantas, or any oneworld alliance airline, or any passenger flying with one of these airlines holding oneworld alliance frequent flyer status equivalent to oneworld emerald or sapphire. The lounge is set on two floors and provides access to a range of dining options, including a la carte dining and a gin bar on the lower floor.
After a couple of cocktails and some signature salt and pepper squid in the Qantas International Lounge, I headed to the Cathay Pacific Business Class Lounge (www.cathaypacific.com) for a final drink before boarding. Located right next door to the Qantas Lounge, the Cathay Pacific Lounge features a manned bar serving a vast range of alcoholic drinks, their signature Noodle Bar, and showers to freshen up ahead of a flight. Eligibility is the same as that Qantas Lounge but First Class and oneworld emerald frequent flyers have access to a separate part of the lounge with a la carte dining.
You can read more about the lounges at Heathrow in my upcoming article.
Onboard, I was lucky enough to secure a Row 1 seat. If you're ever travelling in Club Europe, the extra legroom that Row 1 offers is well worth going after but you'll need to have at least Silver status to have a good chance of getting one as BA release these to those who hold status first. Gold members will have access to these seats at the time of booking and Silver members will have access to these seats from around 72 hours before departure, although there are variations to this rule depending on the airport you're departing from.
The aircraft that would be flying me out to Vienna was A320 G-MIDO which is a frequent flyer’s nightmare. British Airways have a large fleet of “baby buses” including aircraft they’ve acquired from other airlines over the years. G-MIDO is an ex-bmi aircraft that BA acquired when bmi went bust in October 2012 and still has the same interior from then. Compare this to the newest A320neos or even the BA A320s of the same era as G-MIDO that have had cabin refurbishments in recent years and you’ll know why frequent flyers aren’t a fan of the ex-bmi aircraft. Thankfully, this would only be a short flight and I quickly forgot about the aircraft I was sat in.
The meal service marked my first afternoon tea on BA following the return of a full onboard service. There’s limited options on an afternoon tea service but the champagne kept flowing until our arrival in to Vienna on a remote stand, where the sun was setting spectacularly behind the aircraft.
Vienna Airport has been on the same site since 1939 with Terminal 1, it’s oldest terminal and where British Airways operate from, underwent a refurbishment in 2013. Arriving on to a remote stand, we were bussed to the terminal before clearing immigration, where there were no queues. And with no bags, I headed straight down to the platform to catch my train in to Wien Hauptbahnhof.
On the return leg, we arrived early for our departure, so early that we contemplated taking the earlier flight which was still checking in. But, we’d arrived early to spend time in the lounge and so we stuck to that plan. BA's Club Europe and elite status passengers are given lounge access at the airport's VIENNA Lounge (www.viennaairport.com), which is one of the most impressive airport run lounges I’ve seen. Having opened very recently, the lounge was naturally well presented, featuring a range of seating including sleeping pods located in a quiet corner of the lounge. The food and drink on offer was great, and although it was buffet style, there were enough options to create a couple of different three-course meals.
The was Kieran’s first business class flight and so I was relieved that we had managed to secure seats in Row 1 so he could have the full experience. The crew were great throughout, although they spent a lot of their time trying to appease a couple of passengers sat a couple of rows behind us who had kicked off about crew moving the bags of other passengers around to free up overhead locker space for other passengers. We both felt it was a bit unnecessary as it wasn’t their bags. With the return of full service, came the return of meal bandings which meant that only a cold salad option was available for our flight due to its short length. The Chicken Salad was flavourful and the Mango and Passionfruit Panna Cotta was spot on.
How to get around
My trip would predominantly be based around Vienna with a day trip down to Hallstatt and with Vienna well connect by a network of trams and metro trains, I opted to use public transport throughout my time in Austria.
Trains run regularly between Vienna Airport and the city with OBB (www.oebb.at), the national rail company of Austria, operating services to and from Wien Hauptbahnhof (Wien Main station) or City Airport Train (CAT) to and from Wien Mitte station. As my hotel was located near Wien Hauptbahnhof, I used the OBB’s Railjet services which run twice an hour and take around 15-minutes from Vienna Airport. Tickets for this journey cost around £3.60 one way in standard class.
Within Vienna, the city is well connected by a mix of subway (metro) trains, local trains, trams and buses. The Vienna public transport network works on a honesty system with no barriers but there are reportedly undercover revenue protection officers who will conduct spot checks. Tickets are purchasable as single journeys or as time-limited tickets, such as a 48h ticket for around £13. Tickets can be purchased at ticket offices or on the OBB app. If you buy a physical ticket, make sure it’s validated at a stamping machine before boarding.
I purchased the train tickets from Vienna to Hallstatt well in advance on Trainline (www.thetrainline.com) as, with most countries, tickets get more expensive closer to the date of travel. Booking tickets for this trip around two months in advance cost me around £26 for a one-way ticket in first class plus a seat reservation fee of £3. When choosing departure times, there was only one service a day in each direction that did not require a change of trains and provided the shortest travel time. We ended up taking the 08:42 train from Wien Hauptbahnhof which got us to Hallstatt for 11:54. This would give us enough time to explore the picturesque village before our return train from Hallstatt at 18:00, which would get us back to Vienna for 21:18.
Ferry services from Hallstatt train station to Hallstatt village run in sync with train arrivals and departures and runs mostly hourly, taking around 5 minutes to make the journey.
Where to stay
For the duration of our trip, we stayed in the Novotel Wien Hauptbahnhof (www.novotel-wien-hauptbahnhof.com), which is located directly opposite Vienna’s main station, making it 15-minutes from Vienna Airport and well placed as a base for exploring Vienna. The modern hotel features contemporary design pieces and has a nordic feel due to the wooden paneling used across. The hotel features a bar, restaurant, gym and solarium. The restaurant, THE FLAVE of Vienna (www.novotel-wien-hauptbahnhof.com) offers great local cuisine although, be warned, there can be a wait when it’s extremely busy as the kitchen is small. The gym and solarium offer impressive views of the city, where I enjoyed couple of breathtaking workouts during our stay. The room featured a well appointed bathroom with separate toilet, large king bed, sofa bed and an extra-large widescreen TV.
A standard room will set you back around £76/€90 a night, and given the location and amenities, I felt this was great value for money. ALL Accor Live Limitless (www.all.accor.com) members receive additional benefits such as free drinks and free room upgrades.
Place to eat and drink
THE FLAVE of Vienna
European, Bar | Address: Canettistrasse 6, Vienna 1100 | Pricing: ££-£££
Located in the Novotel Wien Hauptbahnhof, THE FLAVE of Vienna (www.novotel-wien-hauptbahnhof.com) provides authentic Austrian cuisine in a great atmosphere, although choices can be limited due to a small menu and kitchen. During busy periods, service can be slow, which is what I experienced when I ate here on my first night after arriving late in from the airport.
Warenhandlung Wenighofer & Wanits
Café | Address: Marxergasse 13, Vienna 1030 | Pricing: ££
After a long day walking across Vienna, I stumbled across Warenhandlung Wenighofer & Wanits (www.warenhandlung.at) for a quick stop to recharge. The café offers a range of coffees, hot beverages and pastries as well as sells local food items.
Aurora Rooftop Bar
Bar, Mediterranean | Address: Arsenalstrasse 10, Vienna 1100 | Pricing: ££-£££
Located a block from Novotel Wien Hauptbahnhof, Aurora Rooftop Bar (www.bar-aurora.at) is inspired by the word for the Northern Lights and features nordic design with an open fireplace. The bar offers a range of drinks including an extensive cocktail menu and amazing views of the Vienna skyline. Reservations are recommended, particularly during high season.
Der Ringsmuth
Austrian, European | Address: Johannitergasse 1, Vienna 1100 | Pricing: ££-£££
Offering authentic Austrian cuisine, Der Ringsmuth (www.der-ringsmuth.at) also offers great value through its set price menus. Located near Wien Hauptbahnhof, the restaurant delivers great service and creates a great atmosphere that even draws in the locals - a true seal of approval.
Palmenhaus
Austrian, European | Address: Burggarten 1, Vienna 1010 | Pricing: ££-£££
Located inside a former tropical tree house which opened in 1882, Palmenhaus (www.palmenhaus.at) is bar and brasserie that sits in one of the largest greenhouses in the world and offers a unique location for dinner and drinks. If you’re visiting during the colder months, this is a great place to stop and warm up over some pre-dinner drinks.
Chamäleon
Swiss, European | Address: Blutgasse 3, Vienna 1010 | Pricing: ££-£££
For some reason, we wanted fondue and so we headed to Chamäleon (www.chamaeleon-vienna.at). Located down a side street, this cosy restaurant was incredibly welcoming and accommodating with the owner hosting us personally. A lovely, warming meal with plenty of cheese and alcohol.
Café Sacher Wien
Café, Desserts | Address: Philharmonikerstrasse 4, Vienna 1010 | Pricing: £££
World famous for its Original Sacher-Torte, Café Sacher Wien (www.sacher.com) offers the perfect place to experience the atmosphere of a typical Vienna coffee house. They also offer a range of small plates if you’re feeling peckish. No reservations are possible so expect to join a line.
Twenty Two Restaurant
Austrian, International | Address: Wienerbergstrasse 7, Vienna 1100 | Pricing: £££
Located in the Holiday Inn Vienna South, Twenty Two Restaurant (www.restaurant-22.at) offers stunning 360 degree views of Vienna from the 22nd Floor as well as delicious Austrian cuisine. Bookable in advance with discounted offers on The Fork app (www.thefork.com), there’s not much that can beat the view and the value for money.
Wiener Wirtshaus Am Naschmarkt
Austrian, European | Address: Minerlgasse 130, Naschmarkt Stand 130-140, Vienna 1060 | Pricing: ££
Reportedly closed since my visit, Wiener Wirtshaus am Naschmarkt was located in the heart of Vienna’s most popular market selling popular Austrian foods. Try anything from beef liver balls in broth to schnitzel.
Places to go and things to do
Vienna
Often considered to be the heart of Vienna, start you day at St. Stephan’s Cathedral, located on Stephansplatz. Whilst it’s free to enter to see the various ornate chapels, entry to the catacombs and towers cost a few euros and, whilst challenging, the climb up the south tower provide striking views of the city centre. Then, get lost in the city streets as you wander towards Hundertwasser Village (www.hundertwasser-village.com), a complex of buildings built on the concepts of Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser. A mix of quirky design and foliage on buildings creates an interesting piece of art. Head for some tranquility and people watching in Stadtpark, a large park in the heart of Vienna which features beautiful buildings and floral arrangements around statues. Finish the afternoon in Albertina Modern (www.albertina.at), an 1800’s building housing post-WWII art exhibitions. The museum boasts over 60,000 pieces by over 5,000 artists. Admission is €14.90. As you explore the city at night, architecture and public art pieces are lit up, providing a different perspective to the city. If you’re after some adventure and play, head to Prater (www.praterwien.com), Vienna’s own amusement park which opened in1766. Entry to the park is free but tickets are required for each attraction.
Start the next day at Burggarten, next to the Palmenhaus, where you’ll find Mozart’s statue. From their head to the MuseumQuartier, which houses the majority of Vienna’s museums. You could spend the whole day (and some!) looking through museums so if you’re limited to time, just pick one that interests you. For me, that’s always a natural history museum. Entry into the Natural History Museum Vienna (www.nhm-wien.ac.at) costs €16 for an adult and offers you access to the exhibits as well as the amazing design and architecture of the building. Another building to visit before heading off for a late afternoon drink, is the Hofburg Palace (www.wien.info) , a former principal imperial palace of the Habsburg dynasty. In the evening, try and get tickets to a show. One of the things I grown to love over the years is a live orchestra performance. We managed to secure cheap tickets to see the Vienna Symphony Orchestra (www.wienersymphoniker.at) for €8 each. Whist we were meant to be standing, the show was being televised and we ended up being seated in seats worth €200 each for free! The music was truly outstanding and I enjoyed being sat in such a grand setting listening to a live orchestra - an experience that I now try to seek out whenever I’m in Europe.
On your last day, head to the Naschmarkt to sample some Austrian delights as well as pick up any souvenirs to take home before heading to the airport. If you’re in the country during Easter, like I was, there are a range of Easter markets dotted around the city serving up food and selling Easter themed goodies such as gingerbread and chocolate.
Hallstatt
Arriving into the UNESCO Heritage Site of Hallstatt, head towards the funicular that will take you up to the Skywalk (www.salzwelten.at), which offers panoramic views of the lake and surrounding mountain peaks. A return ticket on the funicular costs €20 and can be combined with a visit to the salt mines if you have time. There’s a pub next to the Skywalk which is a great place to have a cold beer and take in the views, especially if you’ve opted to hike up rather than get the funicular. Once you’ve enjoyed the views, head back down to the lake side and wander down the promenade. Visit the various shops along the way that sell natural products from the neighbouring area and explore the various side streets and churches along the way. There are plenty of restaurants in this area if you fancy a bite to eat.
Head back on a ferry an hour ahead of your booked train and take a walk around the lake on the hiking track towards Obertraun-Dachsteinhöhlen.
Bottom Line
From the grandeur of Vienna to the natural beauty of Hallstatt, Austria is a truly beautiful country. Layered with culture from architecture to art and from food to music, it’s definitely the place to go to excite your senses in a non-intrusive way.
Vienna is a great city to explore with a great public transport network whilst also being walkable at the same time. One thing I’ve loved about Vienna is the variety of art galleries and museums and I could definitely get lost in its food and drink scene, whilst gaining some weight at the same time! The journey to Hallstatt was long, but the extra-leg room seats, a quieter coach and beautiful scenery helped to pass the time. Whilst a day trip may seem ambitious, unless you wanted to stay in Hallstatt for the night, there’s very little else to do but to admire the scenery.
