Nice and the Côte d'Azur
The French Riviera as seen from Jardin Exotique of Eze (Marco Ng)
The Itinerary
Trip Dates: 22-26 August 2022 (4 nights)
Flights: Club Europe, British Airways - 29,000 avios + £190
Hotel (in Nice): Queen Room, Holiday Inn Express Nice Grand Arenas - £416 (£104/night)
How to get there (and back)
Nestled along the captivating French Riviera, the Côte d'Azur radiates an irresistible allure that has captivated travellers for decades. This Mediterranean paradise, synonymous with glitz, opulence, and pristine coastline, entices visitors with its vibrant blend of glamour, natural beauty, and rich cultural heritage. At the heart of this region lies the city of Nice, an exquisite hub where old-world elegance coexists seamlessly with a cosmopolitan vibe, making it the perfect launchpad for our trip.
Flying is just one of the options when it comes to visiting the region. Eurostar offer an attractive option of travelling via Paris or Lille and connecting onto TGV services onto Nice and the Côte d'Azur. Flying wise, there options are endless when departing from London. A range of airlines fly to Nice from all of the major London airports and offer great prices, even at last minute. That said, this trip was, indeed, another that we flew with British Airways (www.ba.com) as it would be the first time that I’d be flying as a Gold Executive Club member following my extensive mission in the previous year to achieve it.
Our flight to Nice was scheduled to depart Heathrow at 11:30, getting me into Nice at 14:40. Our flight from Nice to Heathrow, would depart at 20:10 and arrive at 21:10.
As Gold Executive Club member, I could use British Airways’ flagship product First Wing for the first time. The First Wing is an exclusive and premium check-in area available to First Class passengers and Gold Executive Club or oneworld Emerald frequent flyer members departing from Heathrow Terminal 5. It is designed to provide a seamless and luxurious start to the travel experience with passengers going through a dedicated security area and straight into the Galleries First Lounge after checking-in. Our security experience was seamless and the direct access to the lounge felt exclusive, especially as no-one else was walking through at the same time as us. The lounge features a range of comfortable seating including a balcony area, a wider selection of food and a selection of fine wines, including champagne bar, and spirits, and additional services such as shower facilities and a business centre. There are also sleeping pods which are great for connecting passengers.
As we were departing in the morning period, the lounge was offering a choice of breakfast dishes on their menu ranging from a traditional Full English through to pancakes and overnight oats. This was a marked difference to what you'd be getting in the Galleries Club Lounge if you were flying in Business Class but still didn’t match up to the quality of options in the lounges of their oneworld alliance counterparts in Terminal 3.
On the outbound flight, the onboard service was great and Jason and his team did a great job of looking after us. Credit where credit is due, Club Europe catering has really stepped up a notch with a greater variety of menu items making the rounds on flights. On this flight, we were served a cold meal as it was a shorter journey but the deconstructed salmon poke bowl definitely didn’t disappoint!
Coming back from Nice, British Airways passengers eligible for lounge access use the Canopy Lounge. As with all third-party lounges, the facilities and offerings don’t compare with airline run lounges. The lounge offered a good supply of sparkling wine but lacked on the food front with ham, cheese and bread being the only appealing items available. That said, it was better spending time in the lounge whilst the flight was delayed.
Our inbound crew were amazing again, proving that BA are often saved by their crews’ performance especially when the rest of their service, such as on-time performance is poor. The meal was chilled again with a chicken salad making up the main - which tasted better than it looked!
For these flights we each paid 29,000 avios + £190 for Club Europe, which given that this was during peak summer, was a great deal.
How to get around
Getting around Nice on public transport is relatively efficient and convenient, offering visitors an affordable way to explore the city and its surroundings. The public transport system in Nice includes buses and trams, both of which are operated by Lignes d'Azur (www.lignesdazur.com), the local transportation authority.
The tram network in Nice is modern and well-maintained. It consists of three tram lines - T1, T2, and T3. The trams are a popular mode of transport for both locals and tourists as they provide a quick and comfortable way to move around the city. Trams run frequently, especially during peak hours, and connect major areas of Nice, including the city center, train station, airport, and the Promenade des Anglais.
Nice also has an extensive bus network that covers the entire city and its surrounding areas. Buses are a great option for reaching destinations not accessible by tram. They also serve as a useful mode of transport for day trips to nearby towns and villages. Bus routes are well-marked, and buses generally run on schedule. However, during peak tourist seasons, the buses might get crowded.
Tickets for trams and buses can be purchased at ticket vending machines at tram stations, bus stops, or onboard the buses from the driver. You can also buy tickets using the Lignes d'Azur mobile app. Tickets are generally valid for both trams and buses and can be used for transfers within a limited time frame. It's essential to validate your ticket upon boarding to avoid fines, although there were no inspections during our time there.
Using public transport in Nice can be a convenient and budget-friendly way to explore the city and its surroundings. It allows you to experience the local culture, interact with residents, and discover the beautiful sights of Nice in an eco-friendly manner.
A busy platform at Monaco Monte-Carlo as passengers waited for the next train for Nice (Marco Ng)
The train system along the French Riviera, particularly the line connecting Nice to Monaco and other towns, is known for its scenic beauty and efficiency. The train service is operated by the French national railway company, SNCF (www.sncf.com), and it offers a convenient and comfortable way to explore the coastal region.
The train journey from Nice to Monaco is one of the most picturesque train rides in Europe. The line hugs the coastline, providing stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea and the picturesque towns along the way. Passengers can enjoy vistas of sandy beaches, azure waters, charming coastal towns, and lush greenery along the way. The journey takes around 20-25 minutes, and trains run frequently throughout the day, making it easy to plan day trips between the two cities.
Trains between Nice and Monaco typically operate at regular intervals, especially during peak hours and tourist seasons. During off-peak times, there might be fewer trains, but the schedule is generally well-designed to cater to the needs of both commuters and tourists. We managed a couple of day trips from Nice, setting off mid-morning and returning late afternoon.
Trains along the French Riviera are well-maintained and equipped with comfortable seating. Some trains offer both first-class and second-class options, allowing passengers to choose according to their preferences. Additionally, most trains have facilities like restrooms, luggage storage areas, and access to power outlets. That said, the trains were extremely busy when we used them with standing room only at times. The train was particularly busy on the way back as there had been a fire alarm and evacuation just before our train which led to significant delays and congestion in the station.
The train network on the French Riviera extends beyond Monaco and Nice, connecting to various other beautiful towns and cities along the coast. Some popular destinations accessible by train include Eze and Villefranche-sur-Mer. Each of these towns has its own unique attractions, making them excellent choices for day trips which we took during our time in the region. You could even cross the border into Italy if you wanted to!
Train tickets can be purchased at train stations, ticket counters, self-service machines or online. It's advisable to book tickets in advance during peak travel times or if you have specific travel plans to secure a seat, although you can also buy tickets on the day of travel.
Trains run from Nice regularly to Eze and tickets cost around €8.50/£7 return in Standard Class. Once at Eze train station, you’ll need to catch a bus to start of the climb, which is included in your Lignes d'Azur pass if you purchase one.
Trains run from Nice regularly to Monaco and tickets cost around €10/£8.50 return in Standard Class. Monaco station sits underground with well signposted routes to all key attractions.
Trains run from Nice regularly to Villefranche-sur-Mer and tickets cost around €6/£5 return in Standard Class. Villefranche-sur-Mer train station sits immediately on the coast with the beach a very short walk away.
Overall, taking the train along the French Riviera is a fantastic way to experience the region's beauty and charm while enjoying a convenient and efficient mode of transportation. Whether you're visiting for a day or exploring the entire coast, the train system makes it easy to move between these delightful towns and cities.
Where to stay
The Holiday Inn Express Nice - Grand Arenas (www.ihg.com) is a modern and comfortable hotel conveniently situated near Nice Airport, making it a convenient choice for those using the airport. It is well-connected to the city centre and other attractions via Nice’s extensive public transport.
The hotel offers a range of well-appointed rooms designed for comfort and relaxation. Rooms typically come with modern amenities such as free Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs, comfortable beds, and en-suite bathrooms. As with most Holiday Inn Express hotels, a complimentary continental breakfast is included in the room rate. Guests can enjoy a selection of breakfast items that include hot and cold continental items to kick-start their day. The hotel also offer services luggage storage, which we utilised to maximise our time exploring Nice.
A queen will set you back £104 per night during peak season and given the distance from the city centre it may not seem ideal. But given the great transport links via tram into the city centre and via the train station next to the hotel (Nice Saint-Augustin), which has links to the rest of the French Riviera, it is an ideal choice for those looking for good value.
Places to eat and drink
Les Distilleries Idéales
Bar, Pub | Address: 24 Rue de la Prefecture, Nice | Pricing: £
Les Distilleries Idéales is a trendy and popular bar offering an impressive selection of drinks, including a wide range of cocktails, spirits, wines, and craft beers. In addition to drinks, the bar serves a variety of tapas and light bites that complement the drinking experience.
L’Epicerie Georges
French, Homemade | Address: 1 Rue Jules Gilly, Nice | Pricing: ££-£££
Located around the corner from Les Distilleries Idéales is L’Epicerie Georges, a cozy bistro run by a couple. The small restaurant features only a handful of tables. Because of this, only two-sittings are served each night. If you’re lucky enough to get a table, be prepared to be wowed by an ever-changing locally inspired and sourced menu.
Old Sport Club
Bar, Speakeasy | Address: Permanently Closed | Pricing: £££
Whilst this speakeasy is now permanently closed, Old Sport Club, was the brainchild of it’s sole owner Remy and located a short walk from Nice marina. Serving up creative cocktails in a uniquely decorated 1920s prohibition-era bar hidden behind a fake Chartreuse shopfront.
L’Uzine Restaurant
French, Mediterranean | Address: 18 Rue Francois Guisol, Nice | Pricing: ££-£££
Recommended by Remy from Old Sport Club (and who also personally escorted us to the restaurant), L’Uzine (www.luzine-restaurant.com) offers a contemporary and innovative approach to Mediterranean and French cuisine. The restaurant combines traditional flavours with modern culinary techniques, creating unique and flavorful dishes. The interior decor was stylish and chic and there was an attentive and friendly service.
Café de la Rotonde
Bar | Address: Place du Casino, Monaco | Pricing: ££££
Tucked in the Casino de Monte-Carlo Atrium, the Café de la Rotonde (www.montecarlosbm.com) is the perfect place to take a sip of luxury. Offering an unrivalled atmosphere, the bar is a great place to admire the casino’s beautiful architecture as well as people watch amongst the glitz and glamour whilst enjoying a cocktail or two.
Le Lunel
French, Mediterranean | Address: 20 Quai Lunel, Nice | Pricing: ££-£££
A traditional French restaurant with amazing views of the Nice Marina, Le Lunel cooks up some of the best French cuisine with local produce. Popular with the locals, the restaurant can get very busy so book ahead if you can.
La Cucina
Italian, Mediterranean | Address: 9 Rue Commandant Raffalli, Nice | Pricing: ££-£££
So…La Cucina was by far my favourite restaurant in Nice. Deviating from French cuisine, we chose to visit an Italian restaurant, which was one of the highest rated restaurants in the whole of Nice. Similar to L’Epicerie Georges, there are only a handful of tables available across two-sittings so turning up early is essential if you don’t want to miss out - as you can’t book ahead! If you’re fortunate enough to land a table, try the charcuterie board - an absolutely delicious treat! Oh, and the Sangria!
Shapko Bar
Bar | Address: 5 Rue Rossetti, Nice | Pricing: ££-£££
Shapko Bar is a well-known and popular live music venue and bar renowned for its vibrant atmosphere, and excellent live performances. Shapko offers a selection of drinks and cocktails to complement the musical experience, although they’re not the best drinks you’ll ever have.
Movida
Bar, Mediterranean | Address: 41 Quai des Etats Unis, Nice | Pricing: ££-£££
With beautiful views of the Promenade des Anglais, Movida (www.movida.today) offers a great place to have cocktails and tapas whilst escaping the heat or hustle of the promenade itself.
Places to go and things to do
Nice
At the heart of Nice is Place Masséna, a vibrant square adorned with stunning red buildings and artistic statues. This lively spot is the perfect place to people-watch, surrounded by the city's energy and elegance. The nearby streets lead to chic boutiques, stylish cafes, and charming restaurants.
The iconic Promenade des Anglais is about 5 minutes walk away. This iconic waterfront boulevard stretches along the azure waters of the Mediterranean Sea, offering breathtaking views, a refreshing sea breeze and a place to take a dip. Roads make way for a boardwalk where locals and tourists enjoy outdoor activities, from rollerblading to cycling. At night, the promenade becomes a place for fire shows and dance-offs.
Take a short hike up Colline du Château and you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views of Nice's coastline and the surrounding landscapes. The remnants of the medieval castle add a touch of history to this idyllic spot. On the other side of the hill, and conveniently at the end of the T2 tram line, lies the Port de Nice, a picturesque and bustling harbour attracting a mix of luxury yachts, sailboats, and smaller pleasure boats. A charming promenade lines the marina, offering a lovely waterfront walk where you'll have the opportunity to admire the gleaming yachts, enjoy stunning views of the sea and surrounding hills, and soak up the vibrant atmosphere.
Up from the Port de Nice, is Place Garibaldi, a historic square surrounded by beautiful neoclassical buildings, reflecting the architectural style that was prominent during the 18th and 19th centuries. The facades are adorned with ornate balconies and wrought-iron detailing, adding to the square's historic appeal. Dominating the center of the square is a bronze statue of Giuseppe Garibaldi on horseback. This monument pays homage to the Italian hero and serves as a reminder of the strong historical ties between Italy and Nice.
Venture back into the city and you’ll come to the enchanting Vieille Ville, the Old Town of Nice. The labyrinth of cobblestone streets are a treasure trove of history and charm. Here, you’ll discover quaint shops, colourful buildings adorned with traditional shutters, and bustling markets offering local produce and crafts. At night, you’ll find performances featuring live music and singing nestled in between restaurants and bars. The famous Cours Saleya Market, is where you’ll find the scents of freshly cut flowers and aromatic spices filling the air.
Lying between the city and the airport is Parc Phoenix (www.parc-phoenix.org), a botanical garden and park spanning 7 hectares and famous for its impressive greenhouses, which house a stunning collection of tropical plants. Inside, you'll find lush rainforests, cacti, palm trees, and many other exotic species. The greenhouses are designed to recreate specific ecosystems, allowing visitors to experience the sights and sounds of distant lands. The park is not just a botanical wonderland but is also home to a small zoo featuring a range of animals. Entry to the entire park costs around €5/£4 per adult.
Eze
Nestled along the picturesque French Riviera, the medieval village of Eze is a hidden gem that seems to be plucked straight from a fairy tale. Perched high on a rocky hilltop, this enchanting destination offers breathtaking views, historic charm, and a sense of timelessness that captivates travelers from around the world.
The Jardin Exotique (www.jardinexotique-eze.fr) is a botanical wonderland perched on the edge of the cliffs of Eze. The garden is a paradise of rare plants and cacti from around the world, with carefully curated pathways leading to stunning viewpoints. From here, you’ll be treated to panoramic vistas of the sea and coastline, making it perfect spot for those instagram shots. Entry to the gardens cost around €7/£6 and is well worth the price.
As you venture further into the village, you’ll find yourself transported back in time. The narrow cobblestone streets wind through ancient stone houses adorned with colourful bougainvillea and charming doorways. Each step reveals another delightful surprise, from hidden art galleries to artisan boutiques offering local crafts and souvenirs.
One of the highlights of Eze is the ruins of the medieval castle, perched at the highest point of the village. The hike to the top is rewarded with panoramic views that stretch as far as the eye can see. The castle's remains are a testament to Eze's rich history, offering a glimpse into its past as a fortified stronghold.
Monaco
Known for its glamorous casinos, extravagant yachts, and stunning coastal landscapes, Monaco beckons travellers to step into a world of sophistication and allure. For motorsport enthusiasts, a visit to this Mediterranean gem wouldn't be complete without tracing the iconic Formula 1 Grand Prix circuit. The track's twists and turns run through the heart of the city leading up to the slopes that take you to the Jardin des Pecheurs and the Musée Océanographique de Monaco (www.musee.oceano.org) , a masterpiece perched on a cliff, dedicated to marine science and exploration. Giant aquariums house an array of sea creatures, from colorful tropical fish and graceful sharks to mesmerising jellyfish. Entry to the museum costs €19/£16.
Head past the Cathedral of our Lady Immaculate and the Palais de Justice and you’ll head towards Monaco-Ville, the charming old town that offers a glimpse into Monaco's rich history. The cobbled streets wind through medieval buildings, leading to the Palace Princier de Monaco, where we watch the Changing of the Guards ceremony - a timeless tradition that harks back to centuries of noble heritage.
Cross back to the other side of Monaco where you’ll find the famous Monte Carlo district, where elegance and extravagance intertwine. The Casino de Monte-Carlo (www.montecarlosbm.com) stands as a symbol of opulence, welcoming visitors to try their luck amid grandiose interiors adorned with chandeliers and gilded decor. For non-gamblers, a visit to the casino offers a chance to soak in the grandeur of the Belle Époque era, whilst enjoying a drink in the Café de la Rotonde.
Villefranche-sur-Mer
Nestled between the glamorous cities of Nice and Monaco, Villefranche-sur-Mer is an enchanting coastal town with a stunning bay, charming streets and rich history. Villefranche-sur-Mer's breathtaking bay is often described as one of the most beautiful on the French Riviera. The azure waters glisten under the sun, and colorful buildings dot the hillside, creating a picture-perfect scene that has inspired artists and travelers for centuries. The Plage des Marinières is a popular choice, offering a relaxing ambiance and scenic views of the bay and is where we spent the day sunbathing and swimming in the sea.
Bottom Line
The Côte d'Azur is a destination that will weave a spell on all who visit. With its timeless beauty, luxurious ambiance, and cultural treasures, it's no wonder that artists, writers, and travelers alike have been inspired by its allure for centuries. You won’t find another destination in Europe that gives you the variety of gems that the French Riviera does so well connected and in easy reach of one another.
