Athens
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WIKI : This article contains itineraries merged from two trips in October 2020 and March 2022.
The Acropolis as seen from the Ancient Roman Agora (Marco Ng)
The Itinerary
October 2020
Trip Dates: 16 October 2020 - 18 October 2020 (2 nights)
Flights: Club Europe, British Airways - £198
Hotel: Superior Room, MET34 Athens - £158 (£79/night)
March 2022
Trip Dates: 5 March 2022 - 8 March 2022 (3 nights)
Flight to Athens: Club Europe, British Airways - £150 (one way, estimate)
Flight to Istanbul: Economy, Turkish Airlines - 6,000 United MileagePlus Miles + £27.70
Flight to London: Club Europe, British Airways - £140 (one way, estimate)
Hotel: Superior Room, MET34 Athens - £273 (£91/night)
How to get there (and back)
My March 2022 trip to Athens formed part of a bigger trip to rack up some tier points on my quest for Gold status in British Airways’ (www.ba.com) Executive Club. As is the way with long haul fares in Europe, it was cheaper and more cost effective for me to position out to the east of Europe before commencing my long haul flying with British Airways to New York. At the time of booking, the cheapest all-business class fare from Europe to New York was out of Istanbul and to save myself from seeing Istanbul twice, I planned a slight deviation to the start of my trip to go via Athens to see my friend Nick. Due to the way the bookings were made, I can only give a rough estimate of how much the flights would’ve cost, which was around £150 one way in Club Europe. Compare this to the deal that Aaron and I secured when we made the trip back in October 2020, which was £198 return in Club Europe with one of our legs being flown by a Boeing 787 with Club World seats, and it’s easy to see that ticket prices are picking up as the world begins to travel again.
My return flights were via Istanbul and comprised of a reward booking with Turkish Airlines (www.turkishairlines.com) (using United Airlines’ (www.united.com) MileagePlus Miles) and the first leg of my Europe-US business class booking with British Airways. At the time of booking, there was plenty of award availability on Turkish Airlines between Athens and Istanbul but I only had enough miles to book Economy. Economy cost 6,000 miles plus £27.70 in taxes, which I personally think is very good value, considering the level of service you receive in Turkish Airlines Economy.
Entry requirements at the time of travel were pretty much back to normal and I only needed to complete a health declaration prior to departure. The Foreign, Commonwealth and Development Office’s (www.gov.uk) travel advice page continues to be the first point of call for official information on entry requirements but be sure to check the consular or embassy website of the country you’re visiting too.
My flight to Athens was scheduled to depart Heathrow at 16:10, getting me into Athens at 21:50. My flight from Athens to Istanbul was scheduled to depart at 09:10, getting me into Istanbul for 11:45, with plenty of time to connect on to a 17:25 departure to Heathrow, which would arrive at 18:50.
The airport experience remained unchanged as a whole. I seem to be pretty fortunate when it comes to Security, never really waiting longer than 2-3 minutes after passing through the electronic gates. This, of course, gives plenty of time in the Galleries South Lounge.
Onboard, I settled for Seat 2A. One of the downfalls of being Silver is that Row 1 doesn’t open up until 72 hours before departure and means that it’s a lottery dependant on how many Golds book on to the flight before then. That said, it’s a bit of a first world problem as the seats are the same! The crew onboard were great and continue to be the only saving grace as the onboard food and drink still hasn't changed with Lamb Shepherd’s Pie or Spinach Gnocchi dominating the menu.
Arriving into Athens on time, I walked into a very empty arrivals hall before clearing Immigration in no time. Even though I'd arrived on time, I still chose to take an Uber (www.uber.com) to my hotel given how late in to the night it was. This reduced my travel time to the hotel by about 25 minutes.
Unable to check-in online for the first of my flights for the return journey, I had to stop by the Turkish Airlines check-in desks at Athens to pick up my boarding pass. The line was relatively empty when I arrived and I was seen after about 7-8 minutes in the queue. After clearing Security, I headed over to the lounge. As I was on an Economy ticket, I had to use my Priority Pass (www.prioritypass.com), which is a benefit of the American Express Platinum Charge Card (www.americanexpress.com), to access one of two lounges that accept the Priority Pass.
The Skyserv Aristotle Onassis Lounge is the lounge used by British Airways for their Club Europe passengers. Aaron and I visited this lounge back in October 2020 and it was underwhelming to say the least. The lounge is small and can be packed at busy times, particularly in the evening, leading to capacity limits being imposed and passengers being turned away, even if they are eligible by travel class.
The Goldair Handling Lounge (www.goldair-handling.gr) was the lounge I visited on my return trip in March 2022. I was the first passenger to use the lounge that day and was greeted by some very welcoming staff. The lounge looked better than the Skyserv lounge next door and offered more food and drink options. The tomato and feta scrambled eggs were pretty good! The only negative I could pick out were that drinks, including sparkling wine, were served in paper cups.
The flight was departing from a gate just across from the lounge and boarding took place by row number, which was strictly enforced by gate staff. Before boarding the aircraft, each passenger was offered a hygiene kit and and ear phones. The hygiene kit is pretty comprehensive with masks, hand sanitiser and wipes inside.
In terms of seating, I was allocated Seat 6D which was at the front of the Economy cabin, a couple of rows behind the cabin divider with Business. I had an empty middle seat between me and another passenger too so it felt like I was in Business anyway. The seats were a bit worn, however, and the colours definitely showed the age of the A321. What stood out about Turkish Airlines’ Economy is their onboard service. Whilst British Airways have always found it difficult to provide a substantial snack to passengers in Euro Traveller, Turkish Airlines actually managed to deliver a light meal on, what was, a sub-1 hour flight. The meal served featured a chicken and cheese breakfast salad, bread roll, cake (which was very tasty!), a fruit juice and water. This kept me occupied for a little while and definitely helped to pass the time on board.
After being coached in to the terminal at Istanbul, I made my way towards connections with my eyes set on locating the lounge. I was expecting to have to go through Security and was pleasantly surprised when I was waved through some electronic gates after a visual inspection of my mobile boarding pass. As I walked into Concourse B, I was pleasantly shook by the sheer size of the terminal at Istanbul. The lounge used by British Airways at Istanbul is the only third-party run lounge and by far the biggest I’ve ever seen. Called the IGA Lounge (www.igapass.com), the lounge is located towards the west end of the main terminal near concourse A and B, after security. I’ll cover this lounge in more detail in my Istanbul blog.
British Airways’ flights tend to leave from Gate D7 and is a short 5 minutes walk from the lounge. Secondary security screen takes place for these flights so leave a little extra time in case you’re selected. Boarding takes place in groups and couple with a small gate area and secondary screening, the gate can get very crowded.
Similar to my outbound to Athens, I was relegated to Row 2. The catering still hadn't improved and I had the usual Lamb Shepherd’s Pie.
How to get around
On both of my recent visits to Athens, I’ve gotten around the city purely by walking. Being a bit of a walker and having chosen a centrally located hotel (see ‘Where to stay’), most places of interest are within walking distance. For those who are less keen on walking, Athens has a good bus and metro network - but be warned, Athens is a city with narrow streets and some places can only be experienced and visited by foot.
Where to stay
Ever since my first visit to Athens, MET34 Athens (www.met34.com) has become my go-to for accommodation. This small, luxurious hotel is located in the centre of Athens near Syntagma Square, offering only 7 rooms and suites that are well appointed and stylishly designed. Travel time from the airport is around 35 minutes by taxi or 1 hour by public transport, but this is generally the same for all city centre hotels in Athens given the location of the city’s airport. The hotel is well located for walking to some of Athen’s must-sees and is a short two-minute walk to the nearest metro station.
Having opened back in 2016, this 4* hotel does not show any significant signs of wear and each room or suite is very spacious (some of the most spacious I’ve stayed in a city centre location) and feature a bed, digitally controlled lighting and blinds, fully equipped kitchenette and floor-to-ceiling marble-tiled bathrooms. Some rooms come with a balcony that overlooks the small pedestrian street that is used to access the hotel.
A superior room will set you back around £91 per night (2022 prices) but is well worth the premium given the hotel’s location, excellent service and plentiful breakfasts each morning, which are included in the price and served in-room at your preferred time.
Places to eat and drink
Taverna Tou Psirri
Greek, Mediterranean | Address: 12 Eschilou Psirri, Athens, Greece | Pricing: ££-£££
Nestled in the heart of the lively nightlife neighbourhood of Psirri is Taverna Tou Psirri. Serving up traditional greek food, the restaurant’s menu rotates around different specials, which are brought around for customers to pick and choose. Prices are very reasonable and dining outside is recommended for those warm summer nights.
A for Athens
Bar, Mediterranean | Address: Miaouli 2, Monastiraki Square, Athens, Greece | Pricing: ££-£££
Serving up their own signature cocktails, overlooking Monastiraki Square and with a stunning view of the Acropolis, A for Athens (www.aforathens.com) is one of my favourite rooftop cocktail bars in the world. This bar is a must if you’re ever in Athens.
The Acropolis as seen from the A for Athens cocktail bar (Marco Ng)
To Kafeneion
Greek, Mediterranean | Address: Epicharmou 1, Athens, Greece | Pricing: ££-£££
After exploring Plaka, Athens’ tourist neighbourhood, it’s time to grab a bite to eat in one of the many restaurants than line the narrow, stone cobbled streets. To Kafeneion (www.tokafeneio.gr) serves up authentic greek food and is the perfect place to recharge whilst watching the world whizz by in their alfresco setting.
Athinaikon
Greek, Steakhouse | Address: Mitropoleos 34, Athens, Greece | Pricing: ££-£££
Located next to MET34, Athinaikon (www.athinaikon.gr) serves traditional greek cuisine in an art-filled setting. Staff here are friendly and the food is reasonably priced. Open until late, the restaurant was a great option for grabbing a bite to eat without having to venture out into the city after arriving late at night.
Norman
Bar, Café | Address: Normanou 6, Athens, Greece | Pricing: ££
Norman is perhaps the perfect pit stop for every cocktail lover whilst exploring the city. Located in the heart of the Monastiraki Markets, you’ll find this hole in the wall down an alley with other food and beverage outlets, serving signature cocktails for €8. A great alternative to iced coffee if you ask me!
Rozalia
Greek, Grill | Address: Valtetsiou 59, Exarheia Square, Athens, Greece | Pricing: ££-£££
Recommended by my friend Nick who lives in Athens, Rozalia (www.rozalia.gr) offers up varied and delicious home-style greek cooking at great prices. This is one of those places that the locals rave about and that you should definitely try if you’re looking for an authentic local dining experience. The saganaki cheese (deep-fried cheese drizzled with honey and sesame seeds) is to die for!
Boo!
Bar, Café | Address: Sarri 21, Athens, Greece | Pricing: ££-£££
Another recommendation by Nick, Boo! is located in the heart of Psirri. The bar’s design has been inspired by Africa and the atmosphere is warm and welcoming with friendly staff. Our bar tender even treated us to a free shot before we left after a few cocktails.
Antica
Greek, Mediterranean | Address: 25 Adrianou, Monastiraki, Athens, Greece | Pricing: ££-£££
I stumbled across Antica (www.anticarestaurant.gr), after a visit to the Ancient Roman Agora, on a street lined with restaurants vying for the custom of tourists. Antica is definitely one of the better options here and the restaurant serves up great greek food at relatively decent prices. Dining outside is recommended but don’t sit too close to the street - it can get very busy and loud!
Hermion
Greek, Mediterranean | Address: Pandrosou 15, Plaka, Athens, Greece | Pricing: ££-£££
Hermion (www.hermion.gr) is located in the centre of Plaka and serves classic greek food. The restaurant is big and offers ample indoor and outdoor seating.
Ciel
Bar, Café | Address: Mnisikleous 2, Mitropoleos Square, Athens 10556 Greece | Pricing: ££-£££
The only other rooftop bar to make this list and another recommendation from Nick, Ciel (www.cielathens.gr). It may not look like it when you first arrive and find the old elevator that takes you up to the roof, but once you’re there, the bar offers great views of Acropolis with a slightly more chilled vibe than A for Athens.
Places to go and things to do
Located close to the hotel on Syntagma Square, which is sometimes considered to be the centre of Athens, is the Old Royal Palace, which now houses the Greek parliament. Just outside this is the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, where every hour, there is a changing of the Presidential Guard. On certain days, this changing of the guard is accompanied by an army band.
Set behind the Old Royal Palace are the National Gardens which are beautiful to walk around. Located around the centre of the gardens are a number of animals that were imported to live in the gardens. The National Gardens spans South up to the Zappeion, a modern landmark in Athens used to host ceremonies and meetings.
Continuing south west from the Zappeion is the Temple of Olympian Zeus, the ruins of an Ancient Greek temple probably of which only a fifth is still standing today. If ruins and history are your thing, the Parthenon and the Acropolis of Athens is a must visit. You’ll need at least a few hours to truly absorb the surroundings whilst you’re up there. Other smaller sites to consider are Hadrian’s Library and the Ancient Agora of Athens, with the latter offering great views of the Acropolis from a close distance. Some of these sites offer access to multiple sites for a discounted price so be sure to plan ahead here.
If the weather isn't great during your visit, you may be deterred from visiting one of the sites above. A great alternative, and personally a must-see, is the Acropolis Museum (www.theacropolismuseum.gr) located at the foot of the South Slope of the Acropolis. The museum features exhibits of items discovered and offers a good insight into the history of the site. Other museums or art galleries to consider are the Goulandris Museum of Cycladic and Ancient Greek Art (www.cycladic.gr), a museum showcasing Ancient Greek art, and the Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation (www.goulandris.gr), an art gallery displaying a curated art collection spanning many decades.
Outside of historical sites and museums, there are a number of areas that are worth just walking around and exploring. From Monastiraki Square with its flea market to Plaka, which sits in the shadows of the Acropolis, there are plenty of hidden gems to discover.
For the best view of Athens from a vantage point, head to Lycabettus Hill. The top can be reached in three ways: a walk, by cable car or by taxi. Aaron and I actually took a taxi from the Temple of Olympian Zeus and the taxi driver waited for us whilst we took some photos before taking us back to our hotel. This same taxi driver also provided us with a quick tour down to the Temple of Poseidon to the south-west of Athens before taking us to the airport on our last day in the city back in October 2020.
Bottom Line
A city filled with history, good food and good weather (most of the time) makes Athens a city that ticks all the boxes. I am some who loves a good looking building and geeks out on a bit of history so I fall in love with it every time. The geography makes it warmer, for longer and is great for those shoulder season escapes. If you’re a fan of the greek islands and want to do something other than lie on a beach at a resort, I’d definitely recommend Athens for a weekend away.
